Pasley Sand Island Journal: Sand Island redux

Thursday, September 8, 2016

Sand Island Redux

During our weeks-long stints volunteering on Sand Island in the Apostle Islands National Lakeshore Betsy has enjoyed creating daily entries for the Sand Island Journal; which is basically an open, running diary that dates back to at least 2007 with entries posted by dozens of different National Park Service volunteers.

Following are Betsy's Journal entries from our second tour of duty on Sand Island this summer (the entries from the first tour of duty were posted to the blog on July 9). These daily missives have been copied verbatim from Betsy's hand-written, daily journal entries (plus one from a well-known "guest" author). In a few places Betsy has added explanatory comments [in brackets] while supplementing the text with numerous photos.

While we were still traveling around Wisconsin we got an email from our supervisor (radio call #303) asking if we could start our second tour of duty a day early. Sure, we said. So we cut short our stay at the Duluth Tall Ships Festival (which was also hosting the world's largest rubber duck) and headed back to our Apostle Islands "base camp" in Washburn.

We were scheduled to have the typical three-hour overlap in the switch-out of volunteers, and Betsy was looking forward to meeting and debriefing with Gail (a former NPS superintendent for a park in Alabama) and her hubby Charlie. But just as we landed Gail said they needed to get back to the mainland ASAP, so Betsy had about only about three minutes to talk with Gail and she and Charlie were off on the boat and we were alone on the island.

It was a muggy, hot day and we were all sweat-soaked by the time we rushed the loading and unloading of the boat. It's still a mystery as to why the rush, but glad we could help them get on the road.

August 23, 2016 THURSDAY 84 Warm!

We're baaaccckkk! After our 3-week gig at the start of the 2016 (Centennial) season, we have returned for 2 weeks to close it up.

Our predecessors (successors?) have done a great job of maintaining the cabin, lighthouse, trails and grounds through all sorts of excitement, including storms, lost children, and missing kayakers.

Gail and Charlie [the previous volunteers] had something come up so we came out a day early. Also, boat operator Myron (455) shuttled them back to LSB [Little Sand Bay, on the mainland] so they could get on the road.

Checking us in was Emily Hoopman, one of the twins we first met 4 years ago working at LSB. It's been fun to see her grow into a college student. She hadn't visited the Sand lighthouse yet, so Myron dropped her and Dave off on the rocks for a visit and hike back, while I unpacked all our boxes of stuff.

While enjoying a beautiful sunset [above] and mosquito-free dusk (a few biting flies are around) a camper came by to report a bear near site #1. Sounds like the same one who's been hanging around.

Only 66 degrees tonight but I'm hoping for cooler nights soon. It's good to be back in our cozy cabin, reading while being serenaded by crickets and Lake Superior waves.

August 24, 2016 WEDNESDAY 78 and breezy

Last night's serenade was replaced this morning by a cacophony of clatter. The noise from the boats, construction equipment and bulldozer - with a touch of chainsaw - pretty much surrounded the cabin.

It was not so quiet out our picture window.

So I escaped to the lighthouse for peace and quiet. (The old dock is being dismantled.)

On the way up the trail earlier, Dave happened on a bear cub by the Hansen cutoff and then heard loud crashing in the woods - thankfully away from him - and the cub followed. We will alert #1 campers to be extra careful.

Speaking of careful, we always appreciate when a group is led by competent guides. During our June/July duty we met many, including 2 delightful UM-Duluth college students. While waiting at LSB for our ride yesterday, we ran into them coming back from a trip and exchanged hugs. Then, one ran down the dock a few minutes later to share pictures they had taken of us and their kids back in June. They had made copies for us in case they saw us again. The pics weren't great, but the thought and memories were.

This morning, a guide from a photography group for at-risk youth stopped by to express his concern about the campers in group A, who we watched motor in on 3 inflatable rafts. Apparently they were headed to Devils [Island] and the guide just wanted to give us a head's up. After Dave and I both surreptitiously "chatted them up" we discovered they were a Scout group from Travers City, MI, had lots of experience with these steel-framed rafts with substantial motors, and were actually excited about big waves! Later, however, when I learned there was a Small Craft Advisory tomorrow, I left them a note about that and the bear. We'll see...

My first hike today since coming back was nice - and different. I'll try to summarize the differences over our 6-week absence in a later post.

August 25, 2016 THURSDAY 70 and windy!!!
Happy 100th birthday, National Park Service

Betsy suiting up at the lighthouse in her commerative NPS gear.

"The lake is putting on a show for its birthday!" - APIS

That was the comment from HQ at the end of Morning Roundup, after 2 announcements: first, a Small Craft Advisory all day, and second - because of the SCA - moving the Centennial celebration from its planned location at the Old Michigan Light to the mainland.

It was truly blustery - the windiest we've seen it in our 11 total weeks here the last 3 years. So... No lighthouse visitors.

Waves were crashing off lighthouse rocks.

Our motor-rafting scouts were around in the morning "messing around" in the Swallow Point sea caves and doing "donuts" in the bay, before taking off for Rocky through the whitecaps. I assume they arrived safely (no incidents reported over the radio) but I was disconcerted by what seemed to be a lack of respect for the lake. I know I would be hard-pressed to entertain 13 teenage boys for a week, but 3 things bothered me: the disregard for potential danger; noisy behavior; and (even more important to me) the fact the leaders/boat drivers were not wearing PFDs [life jackets]. I was relieved the kids were but wondered what an example they set.

[Note from a few weeks ago: a teenager died after getting caught in a riptide while swimming off a nearby island.]

The contractors dismantled the old camper's dock today, returning it to beach. First thing this morning as they were setting up they yelled to us they saw a bear on the beach. I think I'm the only one who hasn't seen this creature or her cub.

Directly out our window tonight is a family of 4 from Corny [Cornucopia, WI] who got permission to tie their boat up to the construction barge. Aside from asking them to turn down their radio and listening to their kids, it's alright I guess, as long as they don't stay up late ...

No other campers.

August 26, 2016 FRIDAY 70 and pleasant

It was a red-letter day for Sand Island docks today. We started the day with 3 (2 old and one new) and ended with 1 (new.)

Also, the huge "Sand E" barge that has been floating by the new dock and interrupting the view from our picture window is GONE! Yay!

It looks - from other VIP posts this summer - that the dock crew brought all the barges and heavy equipment out around July 21. I've read Rick's description of them laying steel cribs and Gail's of the pile drivers. As we boarded our park boat on Tuesday at Little Sand Bay, we saw the "Outer Island" barge leaving with two large concrete mixers. Sure enough, they finished pouring the dock this week.

So that's how you pour concrete on islands in Lake Superior.

Then, the last 2 days, the Red tug/barge pushed the "Sand E" back and forth between old and new docks. The huge "claws" suspended on a crane dropped to the old docks to tear them apart. The operator then swung the pieces onto a trash pile on the barge. It was fascinating to see him lift enormous rocks at the lake bottom that were holding down the cribs. Then he would lift an entire crib section - some with rocks still embedded - from the lake onto his barge. They later towed off the wood, but re-used the rocks by dropping them along the edges of the new dock. It was amazing, mesmerizing to watch, and LOUD!

But now they, and the two sad broken-up docks, are gone.

Our NPS guy used the contractors' crane to unload tons of metal framing and boardwalk sections for their part of the project. And they spent all day chainsawing trees and stumps for the new dock connection.

Above: the start of the dock connection to an accessible boardwalk trail.

So our yard is covered in equipment and more noise is on the way. We will treasure the quiet this weekend.

Only 2 lighthouse visitors, but all campsites except Group A are filled.

August 27, 2016 SATURDAY 70, cloudy and breezy

No construction noise, but today was anything but quiet. Happy sounds of campers of course, walking the trails, filling up water, heading out in kayaks. But also lots of visitor interaction.

I considered meeting Dave at the lighthouse this afternoon after completing cabin, campsite and privy chores, but changed my mind when we started getting light rain. I don't do so well on the slick boardwalks and suspected I might do more good hanging out here.

I was right! One group knocked on the door looking for #1, the guys in #2 wanted to stay an extra night, and around 4 I met a kayaking foursome who pulled up on the beach. They had a permit for "zone camping." They didn't know much about where to go and I'm anything but an expert at this. I got the handy brown book out of the cabin to talk through options, and called 315 [HQ] to see what sites were open. Unfortunately, the only open sites were #3 and (new) #5 in Lighthouse Bay [the other side of the island.] They had paddled in from Meyers Beach and - after those 9 choppy miles - weren't enthused about 2-3 more. But off they went.

I've also enjoyed visiting with the two Michigan U guys in #2, the Wilderness Inquiry group in C, and the father and daughter from Cambridge, WI on a last trip before she heads to college Tuesday.

Finally, the group of 20-somethings in #1 are apparently not veteran fire-builders. One of the guys asked if we sold "dry" firewood. Dude, this isn't a KOA. I hope the bear doesn't visit them.

I figure 47 campers are here tonight, and Dave gave 7 tours for 25 people today.

A post-construction note. After the barge left, we noticed some scrap wood (above) from the dock demolition on the beach, where lots of kayakers like to walk barefoot. So today Dave filled a hand-cart full of nail-studded boards, which we may try to burn while here. At least they're off the beach.

August 28, 2016 SUNDAY 74 Cloudy, then clear

"The sky was dusted with stars." I read that line in a history book I am reading, and it reminded me of last night. We went to bed with clouds after some rain, and also woke up to them. But about 2 a.m., when Dave and I coincidentally woke up at the same time, I noticed stars through the skylight. So we ventured outside to gawk at the "dusting" of stars and a sparkling Milky Way on this moonless night. What a treat.

I've been thinking about our Island predecessors lately. For instance, as I watched the gargantuan construction operation and the crane operator moving hundreds of large rocks around, I thought of Carl Dahl, Jr., who led us on a trip down memory lane as we traced the shoreline last summer. He said that, as kids each summer, they moved hundreds of rocks for docks or erosion control and said "as a general rule, rocks were picked up by hand. I never remember using a wheelbarrow." How I wished he had seen this!

Also yesterday I kept an eye on the new dock to make sure nobody tied up. I walked out to a boat perusing the dock and chatted with the driver, who seemed impressed. As he motored away, I noticed the boat name on the back: "Burt Hill / Sand Island." Of course, Burt was an upstanding Sand citizen and Shaw Point resident who was the first (and only?) Postmaster. I don't know if the folks on the boat were descendants. I would have loved to ask them!

Finally, we haven't made our visit yet to the Hansen farmhouse this season (although, based on scat reports, the bear has!). However, I was sad to hear the July 21 storm felled a tree that hit the house, but the damage apparently isn't too severe. It will be cool when they rehab the farm for interp in the next few years.

Slight tree damage to the Hansen roof from the July 21 storm.

It turned into a beautiful, calm day today with lots of visitors. Four tours and 3 sites full (15 girls from St. Scholastica in B, 4 in #1, and a couple in #2.)

On the hike back we noticed a couple in an aluminum CANOE heading out from Justice Bay in choppy waters. I hope they are OK!

Dave reported a Pileated Woodpecker E of the lighthouse. Other than that and the red squirrels, no other wildlife to speak of...

August 29, 2016 MONDAY 78 Muggy but nice

It's an orange sherbet sky right now as I watch the sunset reflect off the clouds that are supposed to bring more rain tonight. Early this morning I awoke to a silent flashing of light, and within the hour the thunder and rain were right over us. But the day cleared up nicely.

It was a blissfully quiet Monday around the cabin. No dock crews, no maintenance staff and only remaining campers are the girls all the way down in Group B. So Dave got to the lighthouse to give the girls a tour - his only one of the day. And I hung around here to do laundry and other chores, including updating the unofficial "guide" we are creating to help future Sand volunteers.

I was excited to identify the minuscule orange trumpet-shaped wildflowers I've noticed on the trail: they are Spotted Touch-me-nots (below). Love the name.

The Spotted Touch-me-not.

The day ended with another entertaining radio call from Denise (5-zero-8) on Manitou [Island]. Not only does she have the most cheerful radio voice, she is always curious and positive. On June 30 this year I wrote about her joyful American Pine Marten report. Then last week at the end of her rote wind and wave report during Morning Round-up, she added: "May I also say how beautiful it is out here?" I had the pleasure to chat at length with her 2 years ago before the season, and was so inspired. She has been volunteering ALL SUMMER on Manitou for [5] years, a remote, scarcely visited island with a Fish Camp and no running water. She has made many friends and positive NPS impressions through the years, and I can't imagine NPS ever finding a replacement for her.

Back to the 4:30 radio call - she hailed biologist Peggy (612) to ask about the Black Billed Cuckoo, which she spotted and researched. Peggy confirmed it was a rare sighting. Denise replied, "I knew it. At first I thought it was crazy; I mean cuckoo!" Then they exchanged thoughts on a Meadowlark, ending with Peggy commenting, "I guess Manitou is the place to be." To which Denise replied, "It has been the place to be for a long time." Indeed. Or at least as long as Denise is there.

August 30, 2016 TUESDAY Cool, dry after 1.25" rain last night

[I spent the night at the lighthouse and Dave wrote this "succinct" Journal entry] Many campers; 2 tours; Betsy slept in lighthouse.

August 31, 2016 WEDNESDAY 71 Calm and cooling

Thanks Fred - I mean Dave - for that succinct entry (a' la Fred Hansen's diary.) I did indeed spend the night at the lighthouse, and it was really special.

Four years ago when we lived in LSB [Little Sand Bay] and worked at the visitor center, I trekked almost nightly to the (then intact) Hokenson dock to see the sun set over Sand Island. Now that we've been on Sand these last 3 seasons, we've only seen reflections [of the sunset, because the volunteer cabin is on the east side of the island]. So I was determined to watch at least one sunset from the tower and not enthusiastic about a dark walk home (we're almost at a new moon). The spectacle would have been better with some clouds, but was still amazing.

Then I noticed a bright flash behind me right at sunset and suddenly remembered: "I'm standing next to a working signal light!" It was my first-ever sight of our flashing-every-6-second white beacon.

As the sky darkened, the light briefly interrupted my star-gazing but didn't detract from a fabulous 360-degree view, as the Milky Way extended from the south horizon to the North Shore [of Minnesota]. The only light pollution was Silver Bay, and the multitude of flashing lights and buoys.

I slept great and treated myself to cereal with freshly picked blackberries before a trio (and dog) emerged from the woods at 9:15. Fun time.

Not a bad breakfast nook - with fresh blackberries to boot.

Yesterday did bring an unwelcome sight - the huge barge had returned to move more rocks! But it's gone again. Also, Paul took down our "Dock Closed" sign and barrier. So we can use the steps again. Yay! No more orange fence.

Now we can use the old dock steps again; just no more dock.

Six 60/70-something kayakers in B circumnavigated the island today and reported a huge eagle and nest near Shaw Point. Also, a large group of UW-LaCrosse freshmen in A and a nice Green Bay couple in 4.

September 1, 2016 THURSDAY 65 Windy with rollers!

(Sorry this is so long.)

Binoculars ... Bears ... Boats ... Bunnies. That's an overview of a very eventful day when I didn't even make it to the lighthouse.

1) Binoculars: yesterday afternoon's weather update had an ominous addition of a nearshore forecast of NE winds 10 to 20 knot winds and 2 to 4' waves at the popular "after midnight" designation. (More on the forecast specificity in a future post.) Anyway, sure enough, at around 12:15 a.m., the normal quiet was replaced with the roar of 2 to 3' "rollers" coming onto our beach (and crashing over the new dock) since now the wind was directly into us.

Because of our "nearshore" proximity to Little Sand Bay and the mainland, we attract a variety of skilled kayakers, and 5 of our 10 campers on the island last night fell into the less-confident category. That doesn't mean they aren't prepared and doing the right thing, but the 3-mile expanse between us and a safe arrival looks like forever when the waves are rolling.

So first thing this morning our Green Bay couple [Anna and Randy] decided to risk it, and asked to confirm the emergency Marine radio channel (16) and if we'd keep an eye on them. As they neared Shaw Point to the south to turn into the waves, I asked 316 (Little Sand Bay) if they'd keep an eye on them. About 90 minutes later of binocular work (and worry) they arrived!

Then, 5 of the 6 "kayak club" oldsters from Michigan waited awhile before heading to York, Raspberry and Oak! After 1, I followed them [with binoculars] to York and it was slow going. I have no idea if they made it, but they had lots of experience, knowledge and confidence.

FINALLY, mid-afternoon we heard of a Small Craft Advisory, so things weren't getting better. Dave radio'd me from Site 6 about our 2 recent Michigan Tech (?) graduates [Chris and Erik] doing sound recordings on the islands. ("Every beach sounds different," they told me yesterday.) They were spooked about the SCA and the waves in Justice bay, so they portaged their gear and 2 boats in 3 trips - 6 miles total.

The sound technicians' portage is almost done on a windy day.

Then they talked about heading in when the SCA was lifted at 8. At 6:15 they came by the cabin to say they were leaving in 30 minutes and asked us to watch them. If this had been my kid, I would have encouraged them to wait until morning but they really wanted to go. So at 6:50 when they floated by we grabbed our trusty binoculars. Dave started another fire of the old dock boards with nails while we tracked them to the mainland and along the shoreline to Hokenson dock in less than an hour! They paddled strong, and we were relieved.

Watching the kids cross the choppy channel from our new dock.

Burning the old boardwalk planks.

I haven't mentioned the odd man out: Camper Dave from the kayak club. He really wanted to go home and not out to Oak. So he thought of paying the contractor for a ride (the boat never stayed because of winds), he asked our NPS maintenance guys for a ride (they said no), he considered going home this morning with Anna and Randy, the Green Bay couple but decided to wait. Then we tried to encourage him to go in with Chris and Erik, the sound technician kids, but he has decided to wait until morning. Probably a good idea considering his reluctance.

2) Bears: First, a mention of last night's Oak Island radio drama. At around 9 p.m. 503 tried to hail a protection ranger. Fred (322) from Raspberry chimed in to see if he could help. It turns out a bear came into a campsite of Northland College kids (who came in off of a 50-foot boat) and made off with a girl's backpack of "everything she owned," according to the volunteer. After an unsuccessful flashlight-illuminated trip down the trail it - and the bear - were nowhere to be found. While the pack had no food, it did have things like toothpaste and deodorant (scented, I presume.) To make a long story a little shorter, the kids stayed on the boat, they were convinced to wait until morning for further searching, and now 4 of 7 of Oak's campsites are closed due to this aggressive activity ... Which brings us to our docile neighborhood bear on Sand. Today Dave and I hiked to the Hansen Farm to check on it (the farm) and as we emerged from the woods to the front lawn, Dave saw a bear cub, who quickly scampered away into the woods upon seeing Dave. I missed it. :-(

The Hansen Farm front yard, where we think our mom and cub are living.

Then Camper Dave told me of a sighting of a 60-lb bear moseying through Group B. That's 10 total bear and cub sightings in the past month in a relatively small area. But our campers are responsible and the bear is appropriately afraid of people, so we are doing OK. I am sending Jeanette (303) a summary FYI.

An unexpected surprise near Hansen was finding some ripening apples, and we plucked one and shared it on the spot. Yummy.

In just the two weeks here we're watching the apples ripen.

3) Boats: not much news. NPS boat anchored but contractor chose not to try to tie up for dock work. But newsworthy was the Apostle Islands Cruises "Bayfield Express" visit this morning to view the east Bay and new dock. Based on earlier radio traffic asking Raspberry for a "mini-tour" I surmised the waves were keeping the daily Grand Tour nearshore and they were looking for alternatives. We never get attention here in East Bay so it was a nice surprise.

4) Bunny: sad end to the day as Camper Dave and I walked back from the Dahl Farm sign on the trail - a bunny lay freshly dead by the boardwalk, eyes still open. The kids wonder if they didn't surprise a fox right after the kill. The rabbit looked like it was sleeping. Circle of life ...

No, he's not sleeping.

Dave had no lighthouse tours and mowed, and Camper Dave is our only remaining visitor. Nice guy, but I hope he gets home tomorrow.

Oh, and an eagle sighting in East Bay.

WHEW!

September 2, 2016 FRIDAY 71 Quiet and clear

Historic note: it was 111 years ago today Capt. Donald Sutherland McDonald perished with 6 crew when the Sevona went down on the Sand Island shoals.

MUCH calmer today, but what an extraordinary 24 hours it has been!

Since Dave and I tracked the boys in last night and made a fire, we were out and about later than normal. I came in to start yesterday's marathon entry and around 9:30 decided to take a break outside. I glanced up at another spectacular display of stars and Milky Way but spotted something unusual right above us. At that moment Dave exclaimed: "Betsy, turn off your flashlight." So I did.

My first thought was I was seeing a trail of smoke from our fire but realized it was way too high, and was acting different than any cloud or smoke trail I'd ever seen. It was a swirling white ribbon moving at an incredible clip through the sky. We were hypnotized by it for about 5 minutes before it was gone. "Northern Lights?" I asked expectantly, but what little we knew made it seem unlikely: it wasn't very cold, it was early in the night, it wasn't colorful, and it was moving SE to NW.

But, we discovered today, not only WAS it Northern Lights, it was a rare "Proton Aurora," according to APIS' Facebook posting. Our first NL sighting ever!

We didn't get this fabulous view but the white ribbon was pretty special.

THEN, this morning while chatting on the beach near group C with day kayakers Johnny and Jeannie, a retired couple from Madison, I looked up to see FOUR Bald Eagle circling above the campsites right over us! One is a treat - but 4? Even this WI couple commented how rare this was, and remarked how majestic these birds are. I agree.

THEN ... At 7 as we sat down to our own WI Friday Fish Fry (using fresh frozen Lake Superior Whitefish from Holverson's in Corny [Cornucopia]), Dave spotted our bear. He was munching something on top of the mound out the window so we had a good look at him before shooing him off. We think it's an adolescent male and probably what Dave mistook for a cub. He ran away, but returned so we shooed him away again. That's 12 sightings in a month. I hope he (and we) behave.

"Percy" on our dispersal mound at suppertime. Hard to see him through all the boardwalk frames
and panels in our side yard.

Only 2 campsites full, 3 lighthouse tours, lots of Blackberries (and Black Bear!)

Blackberries abound next to lighthouse.

One day's bounty.

WOW. What a beautiful, magical world God has gifted us.

P.S. After I wrote this and went outside to check on Dave and the stars, he said the bear walked behind him by the fire. Maybe a little too cozy?

September 3, 2016 SATURDAY 74 Mild and bumpy

No bear sightings (by us) today but that doesn't mean the "wildlife" aren't out this holiday weekend. Sites in East Bay and #6 full tonight (we never know about #5 or #3) but all different stories. LA [Living Adventures] groups led by guides Elizabeth, Nicole and Katie in 1 and A I don't worry about, but the 3 college girls in Group C? That's another story. Around 4:30 I got a radio call from the VIP at Little Sand Bay (316) to ask me to let her know when 3 girls with backpacks (!) in their kayaks arrived. Lots of people were worried about their equipment and skill level. It was a little bumpy with 1 to 2' waves and a south wind about 10 knots.

At first I couldn't pick them up [with my binoculars] so we asked around. Then, around 5, Dave and I saw them in small toy-like kayaks with discernible "humps" that must have been backpacks behind each paddler. As one pulled up finally and stumbled out of her boat with - I am not making this up - a Saran Wrap spray skirt, she stated the obvious: "That was hard!" I pointed to the long sturdy LA sea kayaks on the beach and said "That's because you're not in a boat like this." Another replied "We're just poor college kids" to which Dave responded "We just don't want you to be dead college kids." They are supposed to leave Monday.

If they can't afford a water taxi, we'll try to make sure they return with another group who has a radio - which of course these girls don't have.

Bear tracks on the beach.

Bear update: New campers in Group B spotted "Percy" (the name I gave our youngster since we spotted him on the diSPERSal mound outside the cabin) after getting in this afternoon, and he has left 2 new scat mounds on the way to the group sites. Also, several have reported large and small prints on the beach, so we believe it is a mom with a large cub who is branching out. We just need to make him uncomfortable around visitor use areas so I've asked everyone to make noise to scare him off if they see him. I hope he stays away.

Raspberry had 59 (!) on tour boat today. Dave gave 7 tours to 33 people, but at least they weren't all at once, or on a clock!

Cloudy warm evening and lake is flat and glassy.

September 4, 2016 SUNDAY 78 Pleasant

I just came in from watching the sunset's reflection on a pink and gray lake with the peaceful leaping of waves.

A quiet end to another crazy holiday weekend. Similar to our July 4 experiences, the 2nd and 3rd days of a 3-day weekend bring out the inexperienced boaters, un-skilled kayakers, and newbies who don't know the park, campsites, or distances. I forgot to mention in yesterday's "wildlife" posting the 3 guys leaving LSB in a canoe to Devil's Island. "Don't worry about us," they told the LSB Ranger before leaving on the 14-mile paddle in open ocean-type water. "We're experts at this!" I don't know yet what happened.

Now, to our 3 Green Bay "backpacking kayakers" in Group C. We convinced them to leave today - a day early, because of the chance of rain on Monday. As they finally headed out at 4 - with my binoculars on them again - I thought "I hope they listen to their college professors more than us." These college juniors seemed to appreciate the advice to stay on the shoreline before hitting open water in their tiny recreational boats, but they paddled straight out to sea on a beeline to LSB. Oh well. An hour later the VIPs there (316) reported they landed, backpacks and all. "Yay," I said over the radio. Now I can relax.

The floating backpackers wave as they head across the lake.

I walked to #4 and Group C sites to check if anyone had arrived and saw Percy (the bear) by the shed in Group C. "Hey," I yelled. "Get lost!" And he did. Second sighting again today (other by an LA guide near Hansen Farm.)

Only campers in #1 tonight: two nice young Indian (the country) couples in 2 yellow tandems.

Tons of boaters today. Dave gave 4 hours of non-stop tours. Tomorrow should be quiet and we're starting to plan our Wednesday exit. Glad the worst is over with nobody hurt.

September 5, 2016 MONDAY 77 Stormy, then sloppy, then sunny

Each morning APIS (315) reads aloud the National Weather Service Marine Offshore forecast for Western Lake Superior, and we transcribe it and post to our Bulletin Boards to assist boaters. Although I understand the difficulty of being specific for such a large area, often visitors ask us for more details than the standard "after midnight" or "by mid-afternoon."

I've probably transcribed and posted 60 of these and am starting to see how they use "slight chance," "chance," and "likely” when it comes to rain. For example, thunderstorms were "likely" after midnight, and at 4 the storms came.

So I've been wondering how a married NWS couple might converse: MAN - "Honey, when will lunch be ready?" WOMAN - "After midnight." MAN - "I'm hungry. Could you be more specific?" WOMAN - "There's a slight chance by mid-afternoon." MAN - "Would you say a good chance?" WOMAN - "Not likely." MAN goes to pantry for snack.

Other random thoughts on this crazy quiet holiday Monday (which started with loud thunder-boomers and dropped 1 1/2" of rain) while I work on packing and deciding what the heck goes in the "winter box." I'm a bit embarrassed since I unpacked it on June 18!

- VIP can be a fun, restful, stressful crazy job. I marvel at the level of responsibility carried by us unpaid workers, especially on weekends like this last one when there is skeleton paid crew in Bayfield to help and only one protection/enforcement boat out among the crazy boaters and unprepared kayakers. Throw in some alcohol and a bear and you have volunteers pretty much on their own advising visitors, sometimes on life-threatening issues. Don't get me wrong; I love the variety and opportunity for problem-solving on a daily basis, but I do wish NPS had more funds for better training and support of this essential customer-facing role.

- That said, I think our maintenance guys (6xx) are the real heroes out here. They are plumbers, electricians, sawyers, heavy equipment operators, privy builders, campsite creators and boardwalk surveyors. And they do most of this work on islands or from a boat! We've always had great experiences with these patient guys - who also really seem to care about our visitors. Of course, they've been champion noise-makers during this busy construction season, but I will miss them.

Our NPS maintenance guys hard at work.

- Mergansers! When we were here in June, a family lived at the end of the dock by the cabin, and we delighted in watching the tiny fluffy chicks climb on mama's back for a ride, before venturing out on their own and then swimming back to Mom. This morning I saw 9 of these red-headed ducks swimming in the vicinity of our now-vanished dock. Is this the same family all grown up? Are they sharing memories of their old home? Do they recognize us?

Only 2 campers (an older couple from Chicago) with us tonight. We moved them from #1 to #4 platform site, which should be better if the "likely" thunderstorms hit.

Glad we could arrange for the Chicago couple to stay on this elevated site.

September 6, 2016 TUESDAY 80 Gray - then blue

Got a call from 303 while on trail that we would come back a day early because of forecast, so we have been hastily packing, and this last entry will be more Fred Hansen like!

- Came in late spring. Lots of white and pink flowers. Now, no white [or pink] but lots of mushrooms, apples and berries! Also, much fewer mosquitoes and ticks in August. Same crazy holiday visitors. Two and a half LESS hours of daylight now. Lake is 30 degrees warmer. Fewer bird songs (because they've already nested or started migrating). No fireflies. Two old docks in July. One new one in September.

- May not be back in 2017 due to 2 (happy) family commitments. LOVE this job: the 2-mile woodland commute, "office" is lighthouse, boss is the lake.

Betsy and Dave Pasley, San Antonio, TX

Epilogue

My last act before our quick exit was changing the Chicago couple’s (Pat and John’s) itinerary so they could stay on the platform site all 4 days during the rainy forecast.

We're now back in our tranquil spot in Washburn's West End campground, but the day ended on a high note. Since we were called back on the trail, we didn't have a chance to finish packing the lighthouse and bring back large and unwieldy interpretive objects like the scrapbook and glorious framed Milky Way picture. So 303 and boat driver Jim said we'd try to pull up on the lighthouse rocks to get them. Very few boats come this far out west in the islands, and in my 5 visits to these islands since 2008 I had never viewed our "office" from the lake. Dave had seen it briefly when he was dropped off with Emily two weeks ago, but this time we got pictures. Of course, I recognized the view from the puzzle I had purchased for our cabin and put together on this tour. It's a gorgeous sight, and I wonder when/if we'll be back.

The real thing from a new perspective.

The finished puzzle (with flag and pole removed (sniff.)

Loading the boat from the lighthouse rocks.

Sunrise over York Island

I took this first picture pre-sunrise through my window, but I usually go back to bed. Luckily Dave wandered out several mornings to take these varying shots of the 6:20 a.m. sunrises.