2015 Sand Island Journal

Sand Island 2015 log

Prologue

We arrived in Bayfield to stay at Ole and Lena's, which was referred to us by our NPS supervisor. Since we were the only guests in the house, we were able to take over the den with all our boxes and food, and I spent one day cooking, peeling and vacuum sealing in preparation. We also met the couple (two lawyers) who would be manning the more remote Michigan Light, and we got to know them better at the all-day park orientation. After the obligatory trips to Corny for cheese curds, Pier Plaza for Summit Extra Pale Ale, and Ethyl's to chat with the parents of Tex's UVA law school professor, we were ready for our 3-week gig. Following is the daily journal I kept on pen and paper at the ranger cabin. 

June 18, 2015  Thursday  70 sunny and calm

Dave and I are back to open up the LH for the season. Cabin is nice and clean, and I  think I recognized some of  the same mosquitoes from last year.

Since last winter was another cold one, most of the lake froze up again - good for ice cave visitors but bad for Sand Island docks! Now the 2nd East Bay dock is damaged beyond repair. So we didn't know what to expect for unloading our stuff off the boat. We were ready with the M___ boats, which have a D-Day-type landing craft feature. Ranger Susan and I also brought some waders and a floating sled. But, as we approached East Bay, there was a welcome sight. Fabian (aka "Fibber") was there to help us unload and stay dry! 

After signing all our doc and unpacking, we had just a little while to check campsites before dinner. We saw 21 Scouts in site B and almost that many baby Mergansers in the water with Mama, and some pretty fresh bear scat. It's great to be back. To the LH tomorrow...

June 19, 205  Friday 54-66  Sunny to PC

The word of the day today - PREPARATION!

1. We were prepared to unshutter the LH today. After our experience with fly and ladybug carcasses last year (see 6/14 entry from last year) we were "shuttering" at the thought of knocking down and sweeping up millions of insect bodies again. Alas, the maintenance folks had taken down all the shutters - and accompanying detritus. MUCH easier to open up LH. Mowed, swept, hung curtains, and gave 2 tours to 26 folks.

2. Guides with the Boy Scouts in Group A didn't check their permit, which had them one night here and the next 2 on Oak. I called 315 to get another night, but they would have to move. They took their chances and were still in A at 6 when I checked in. So it almost seemed they would get away with not being prepared (isn't that the Boy Scout motto?) until ...

3. At 7 p.m. a motorboat dropped off someone on the beach. She came to the cabin to ask where Group Site A was. OOPS! I told her she would meet up with the Scouts. She was in a family group of 9 with a French exchange student and they schlepped their stuff up the trail - all loose stuff like pillows and bags of charcoal! [Also a rolling ice chest and Weber kettle on wheels.] Also they had citronella candles but no headnets. Should be interesting.

We did see our Pink Lady Slippers today!

June 20, 2015  Saturday  52-60 Rainy

Gave the Morning Report while watching a steady rain outside. I knew the one day of a hike on nice, dry boardwalk wouldn't last forever - but maybe one or two more would have been nice.

I checked on the group in A, thinking they might be packing early in the rainy conditions. What do you know? They were relaxed under a large canopy, surrounding a nice fire and protected by citronella lanterns. I grossly underestimated this group, who I learned is from Superior.

After an inch of rain fell, Dave and I took advantage to mow and trim the jungle that is around the cabin and the campsites 1, 2 and 4. Wet grass made it slow going, but we at least wanted to make the lawn hospitable. After a quiet (no tours) day at the LH, sure enough we got our first individual campers - a group of 4 20-somethings. I doubt they'll appreciate the newly mown area, but we're glad we got it done. More to mow - and then the trail!

OH - we are now on social media! Yipee. At orientation, Neil (302) mentioned the AINL Facebook page, which we frequently check. So yesterday I sent a photo of Dave at the LH tower giving the first tour of the season, and Neil used it to announce all LH tours at AINL open. Emmanuel Luick [the Lighthouse Keeper 1891-1921] would be proud.

The post about our first Lighthouse tour.

June 21, 2015  Sunday   Rain  58-68 Clear

What a Brilliant Blue day! Oh, and Happy Father's Day.

For this special day, I gave Dave a greeting card - and then sent him out to about 5 hours of mowing. Campsites are now fully mown, and the trail to the Dahl Farm Interp sign - which had almost disappeared - is now mown to the width of the NPS lawn tool.

Quiet day. Only 2 tours, although one included 2 kayakers from Russia. That's a long way to paddle! :-)

It's dinnertime and we are alone. No campers or boaters, which is ad because it's a picture-perfect Sunday and the lake and bay are FLAT CALM. We did see a bald eagle briefly E. of the lighthouse.

June 22, 2015  Monday  0.4 Rain  55-60   Rain and clear

Random thoughts after going through 3 tanks of gas mowing the rest of the group campsites and waist-high grass around cabin. (Dave did trail-clearing.)

- You can tell a lot about folks based on what they leave behind (or don't leave behind.) The power-boat group in A left 5 bottles and cans in fire ring. Did they think they would burn up? Most groups are very tidy - no this group.

- What would happen if we hailed on the radio: "101/505?" [Note: 101 is the radio code for the Park Superintendent, CEO of the park.]

- Next to my headnet, which I wear at all times, by far my next best accessory this year is my calf-high rubber boots. They have been awesome in wet grass and mud [and later when wading from shore to get on NPS boats].

June 23, 2015  Tuesday  55-7  Pleasant

Gorgeous day today, but blustery - and a study in contrasts. East Bay and Justice Bay are flat calm, but the flag at LH was stiffly saluting from a strong west wind. In spite of the wind, we had 14 kayakers (12 from charter school in Group B and 2 hardy women in #1) land on the rocks for their tour. It turns out all 14 are from the same town (Rhinelander, WI) and the ladies and one of the school group are old friends. Small world.

I asked the group leaders abut the charter school. They said it was "project-based" and that the 7-12th graders had been planning this trip for more than a year. Pretty cool. One teacher found a cold can of Mtn Dew and 4 kids played a game to win it. 

Dave mowed the mound today. First time of the season so he had to go over it 3 TIMES with the mower! While it's our least favorite mowing task, it seems a small price to pay for indoor plumbing...

Just a little more trail work, and then I think we can transition from caretaking to interpreting.

June 24, 2015  Wednesday  58-65  Cool

That thing I said yesterday about "transition?" Well, as another infamous Texan said: "Oops."

As I was preparing  to hike to the LH, Dave unexpectedly returned from there with the news that the site was closed, and that contractors were unloading all sorts of equipment on the rocks and lawn.

We know that renovation work on the tower was planned for this summer, but were under the impression from NPS that it would be later.

Betsy putting up a temporary "closed" sign for Lighthouse.

So we fashioned some temporary signs for the trails here at the campsites, and for Justice and LH Bay. We have requested more weatherproof signage, and hope to get clear direction about what to tell visitors - and what our priorities should be - from Ranger Susan tomorrow.

June 25, 2015  Thursday  55-70  Nice!

Cool and breezy enough, we didn't need a headnet outside the cabin while trimming and cleaning window. Ran into a Voyager group [using a 16-person canoe reminiscent of the French fur trapper in the 1700s] and several day kayakers, including Ben, who was featured in my June 19, 2014 posting. It turns out the lighthouse contractors surprised everyone, including Ranger Susan. So they are scrambling for signage. It seems the lighthouse will be closed through July [at least], which makes me sad for our successors David and Hope.

We have resolved to use this unexpected event to re-direct our focus away from Charles, Emmanel, Ella and Oramill (and the Prussia and Sevona) and toward the citizens and abodes of East Bay in the late 1800s-1920s or so. We took a trek to the Hansen Farm and will explore Plenty Charm, Herring King shed, Noring Farm, etc.

June 26, 2015  Friday  49-65  Comfy

Our second (sad) social media post.

We are crawling out of our "no LH tours" funk, and today made me more optimistic - not just for the LH, but Sand in general. Let me explain: 

At orientation there were a few references to improvements on Sand. While in town I downloaded the plan off the website and was getting encouraged. Then, while Dave was continuing work on the trail and I was preparing to do Group A privy duty (where the Voyager girls wiped out our T.P. supply) I saw 621 (Dave Cooper's) boat coming into East Bay. Hoping he was bringing signage, I rushed up the trail to meet him. He was headed to Hansen Farm, so I accompanied him and peppered him with question about the LH, Hansen, and other improvements. After our talk I feel really good about improved visitor experience starting this summer. A new dock, updated (accessible) trails to LH, additional campsites, relocated privies, clearing of Hansen property grounds for visitation, etc. The idea of a day use pavilion here at East Bay seems especially appropriate, and we can see the flags in the fire ring area by our cabin [marking the spot.]

I'm impressed by the locals, like Susan, Neil and Coop, who obviously care about the park. When I asked about the "life lease" in West Bay, where a future campsite will be, Coop said, "Well, the guy is 80, but I hope he lives to 125!" So, while the park will ultimately take over Shaw Point and West Bay, they respect the present, but also appreciate having someone living there - like Gert W. at the LH - helps keep up the property [especially since NPS can't currently afford to.]

By the way, we saw our 1st whitecaps yesterday, but it was soon back to calm.

June 27, 2015  Saturday  55-70  Glassy and still

Another day of amazing weather and calm lake. Lots of day-kayakers. On way back from checking Plenty Charm [cabin] I heard voices at Group Site B and found a very fit 50-something couple at the bottom of the stairs cooling off (!) in the lake - which is around 39 degrees now. The guy was in blue skivies and I surprised him, but they chatted while they dressed about running the trail to the LH and back. Wow. Off they paddled so they could drive home to Appleton. Tons of other visitors too.

I worked campsites and cleaning cabin after covering 8.5 miles yesterday, and Dave continued clearing trail and Hansen Farm.

Rain tomorrow? Oh, we also got our "LH closed" signs. Where to put them?

June 28, 2015  Sunday  56-68  Gray, but dry

So much for the Weather Channel's 80% chance of rain. We hiked up LH trail to put up "closed" signage. Lots of dark clouds and noise at North Shore, but storms went south of us.

Quiet today - only 2 in #1 so far tonight. Last night we had a lot of confused campers. We had to direct them the sites after their late arrivals (from 6:30 - 8:30) In all we had as many in sites 1,2 and 4 than in Group B (14).

I've been thinking about our almost daily 2-mile "commute" - and will post more on the highlights later - and have been researching the wildflowers that greet us along the way.

Pink Swamp Mallow Rose

Pink Ladyslippers

Orange Hawkweed (and friend)

From the Orange Hawkweed (which I think deserves a more complimentary name), to the Buttercup (those fragile yellow petals balanced on ridiculously slender stalks), to the small bouquet of Forget-Me-Nots I found on Hansen Farm (baby blue with yellow eyes), to the delicate pink swamp rose mallow near Dahl Farm (why can't it be "marsh mallow?"), to the Dogwood relative Bunchberry, the 4-pointed white petal on top of a 6-pt swirl of leaves (there are a bunch of Bunchberry on the 2nd mile), to - of course - the elusive orchid Pink Lady Slipper, to my favorite Purple Periwinkle (right as you approach the lighthouse.) I am not a botanist, but am amazed at the variety and beauty of these, our commuter companions.

June 29, 2015  Monday  55-72  Nice and calm (again)

Listening to thunder as I write this. Glad we're inside! Looks like a small group in A and a couple in #1 (another visitor who ran the trail; who knew?)

First, a postscript from yesterday. I learned the flower with 5 white slender fingers that are beginning to appear EVERYWHERE are blackberries.

Maybe someday we'll be here for berry-picking season.

Today was full - and serendipitous! Susan came out with Coop and 5 other cultural landscape advisors. It's still unclear to me who employs them, but they got the grand tour of the history of East Bay - and we tagged along!

Great stories (like Gert using "dribble glasses" as a practical joke when kids came to  Plenty Charm for lemonade) and points of interest from Susan (like how the sighting of cultivated flowers like forget-me-nots or periwinkles are great evidence of a homestead or settlement.) Makes sense. The group was gathering data at Plenty Charm, Noring Farm, Hansen Farm, and other abandoned sites. We spent most of the time at Hansen, and it sounds like there will be a visitation plan very soon. Lots of uneven walking, but fun.

Speaking of mileage, I always figured we'd total 4-5 miles a day. But now that I carry my phone with an app that tracks steps, I'm finding I'm averaging more than 7 a day! I had 10.2 today - without even going to LH! Glad I packed the Advil.

Oh, Dave saw a fox at Justice Bay! Largest mammal sighting so far.

Dave did get props today for ALL the clearing he has done at Hansen!

June 30, 2015   Tuesday  45-60 Pleasantly brisk

[Dave entry]

(Channeling  my inner Fred Hansen.) Betsy left. Mowed. Saw eagle. Cooler. Windier. Bugs not as bad.

July 1, 2015

Came back with 621 and the crew after resupply yesterday [and gnarly trip in with NE winds]. Serendipity struck again. Two of the landscape architects needed a lift to Roy's Point, so as I was driving I asked more about the CLR and discovered they were hosting a public meeting about the project at 4 at HQ. So I changed clothes, did laundry, and ran a few errands [like ordering Cherry wine bread at Candy Shoppe] before 4.

Lots of VIPs, but little "public" at public meeting.

The best part of attending the meeting of 20 or so people was finally meeting retired park historian Bob Mackreth (Susan's hubby and author of scores of historic articles). 
Other VIPS included Superintendent Bob. 

It was fun to see Coop and the ladies dressed up after hanging with them in mosquito gear in the morning, and great to hear the scope of the project, which could restore Hansen Farm. Tomorrow they are bringing past S.I. resident Carl Dahl (grandson of Fred Hansen) to the island, and have invited us along. should be fun.

On a wildlife note, a bald eagle flew right over us yesterday (luckily while I had my good camera) and today was REPTILE day, as I encountered a pretty green-striped [garter?] snake and wary frog/toad [American Toad] on the boardwalk.

Mosquitoes have been relatively light (thousands instead of millions) and Dave cleared 2 trees off the trail yesterday without a headnet! Wow.

Waiting right now for full moon to come up. I guess this will be a Blue Moon month.

July 2, 2015  Thursday  50-75  Smooth and glassy

"What I want I get and what a get I keep is going to be my Motto."

- Fred Hansen diary, Nov. 28, 1920

Before I talk history, I'll say we did the privy chores and camper assistance. Last night, while waiting for the full moon after 9, there was a knock on my door. The guide with the scouts in B wanted a way to call someone since they were leaving a day early. I recommended he go to LH for a cell signal. Since they were gone by noon, I assume he got one. [Of course, while we were talking, I missed the moon coming up over the mainland, but did see a pretty orange globe higher in the sky after our talk.] 

OK, about the quote above, I thought it was one of the more intriguing ones from "Diary of a Norwegian Fisherman." Also, it was relevant after spending 3 hours on an NPS boat this morning with Fred's grandson Carl Dahl and grandaughter Sharon. The architects, Coop and Susan recorded an audio interview as we drifted up East Bay between Swallow Point and Plenty Charm  [in crystal-clear water]. Lots of great info and stories. Dave and I expected they would be walking, but when we found out it would be on the boat, he gallantly stayed behind. 

Some favorite stories: they nev-

er walked the road since it was always muddy [it seems there were plenty of paths between buildings and along shore] - they drank water straight from the lake (if there were minnows or "pinheads" they just scooped them out) - they lived in a house where Ranger Cabin is now - as I left, Sharon said "what I liked most about that house was listening to the water." So, tonight before dinner I sat out [with my mosquito-repellant gizmo Hermie] and listened for her. We are so lucky to have them.

July 2, 2015

Here is my attempt at highlights of the 2-mile Lighthouse "commute." [This is a picture of what I drew in the Journal:]

July 4, 2015  Saturday  53-65  Refreshing!

Happy Independence Day!

Back to writing about our day with only to more days to go on this shift. Cool and nice East wind today. A few whitecaps but it didn't keep a lot of boaters and day-trippers away. Most went to the Lighthouse and we kept watch to keep folks away from the construction zones.

Saw our first Wilderness Inquiry group, who had lunch in the "day use area" which of course is our front yard. In fact, yesterday a very enthusiastic Wisconsin family (in shorts) put a tiny grill on the picnic table to cook brats (what else?) They wanted to know about a hike. I pointed out the trail but cautioned them about the mosquitoes. They headed out, and about 20 minutes later showed up, many with big red welts on their legs. I guess it's bad NPS manners to say "I told you so."

In all my interactions with folks from the region, I've look for help identifying all the berry bushes. We are here too early for most, but I've noticed the LH blueberries are halfway there, and I spotted one lonely raspberry near Justice Bay. I'm assuming all the other bushes are blackberry.

Apple blossoms

Also, the Pink Lady Slipper seem to be fading, but apple blossoms smell really sweet. 

My final nature encounter today as with the cool B&W moth we see around here. I saw on at Justice Bay steps. As I moved closer for a picture, I noticed I caught it coming out of the pupa stage! Nature is so cool.

July 5, 2015  Sunday   54-78  Tolerably muggy

Today is Dave's 60th birthday. For his special day, I gave him a greeting card, cooked up some corned beef hash - and sent him off for 2 hours of mowing. I trimmed some too.

[I asked Dave to keep the daisies in the side yard by the kitchen window, and instead he mowed an "NPS" into the grass - still keeping the daisies!]

One more day to go, and 90% chance rain tomorrow. Since we'll probably be packing and cleaning, today's hike to and from LH might be our last. 

So, in retrospect, if "The Lake is the Boss," is the island ... an enigma? Since this is our third summer to volunteer - and 2nd opening up Sand - I think we had a pretty god idea what to expect. But we were wrong!

To wit: LAST YEAR we had visitor dramas like lost kayaks and tiny dinghy adventures -- this year the calamity was a guide not checking his permit. LAST YEAR the Pink Lady Slippers were in abundance -- this year we saw just a handful, and they are fading. LAST YEAR we gave tons of LH tours -- this year, after 3 days, it was closed.

BUT ... it's not all bad! LAST YEAR we saw no berry blooms [because of the late spring and cold?] - this year the apple blooms and blackberry petals greet us, the Blueberries are forming, and we spotted some itsy-bitsy strawberries on the LH lawn today! LAST YEAR we were too busy to immerse ourselves in the culture of the East Bay inhabitants - this year we had the time [and opportunity with Coop and his CLR team.]  LAST YEAR we had some cabin issues, like no water -- this year  have two lights out (much better than our cohorts at LSB with fumes, Raspberry with a water leak, Devils with a propane leak, and a bat in Michigan quarters!

So I'd say our expectations were exceeded.

July 6, 2015  Monday   59  Dreary all day

Stormy last night and rainy all day - PERFECT for our last day of cleaning and packing. Dave is still out for a hike, since he's finished his books and is bored. [Glad we mowed and trimmed yesterday.] 

Only 2 campers in #1 last night - a young couple from the Dells here until Wednesday. I hope they brought something to read!

This is only our 2nd day like this, surprising since last year we ran the heater many nights, had several days of windbound and fogbound kayakers, and even some small craft advisory days. 

I don't know why it matters, but I always hope people leave Sand with a good memory, but my fear is all they will remember - especially in late spring - is mosquitoes. But I had a nice talk with a Dad on Saturday hiking from his boat with his young family. He said he loved Sand, Justice Bay and the lighthouse because it was almost a "secret" since it is far from Bayfield and tour boats, and he brings his family here from Duluth often. That made me feel better.

I guess my last impression is "ephemeral" - not only did the residents leave after about 50 years, but everything in the woods - ferns, flowers, moths, etc. - evolve and metamorphize year after year. One day I look up at #4 to see yellow daylillies by the Noring Trail that weren't there before. So much beautiful change.

As I look out our amazing picture window to a foggy lake, I see the trees that Dave and I grumble about blocking our view. Then I recall the story Carl Dahl, Jr. told on the boat the other day: when they lived on this lot, his Dad planted the white pine so he could "see the lake through the branches." Then he planted the cedar, which Alma protested as too close to the pine. They are no longer here, but the trees remain. Now they don't bother me as much! 

Enjoy the island!

Epilogue:

The night before we left, we received a rare radio call from another volunteer. It was the couple from Michigan Island who wanted to wish us farewell, and said they would probably be returning. That was an unexpected pleasure. Also, the next day at the laundromat a nice older gentleman struck up a conversation with us. It turned out he was fishing buddies with Carl Dahl, Jr.! Such a small world. Maybe we will return for the NPS' 100th anniversary next year. 

Back to civilization and Summit Pale Ale

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